By Heather Bolen

I love the Louvre. But it can be overwhelming, and you certainly can’t do it all in one day. Indeed, I recently read a fun article, which stated it would take you around 200 days to see each of the 35,000 works of art on display at the museum if you took 30 seconds to see each and every piece.

Frequenters of the Louvre, including myself, recommend doing a highlights tour or slipping away to a less popular wing to better enjoy the experience. Besides, part of the gloriousness of the Louvre is just soaking up its architecture.

But the lines! Even with a pre-purchased online ticket, you’ll be doing some waiting.

If you’re looking for a museum that you can see in its entirety during your visit to Paris and you want to avoid the crowds, these three gorgeous options are easily accomplished in half a day. And they’re just as grand as the Louvre!

MUSÉE CARNAVALET

Musée Carnavalet is dedicated to the history of the city of Paris and occupies two neighboring mansions: the Hôtel Carnavalet and the former Hôtel Le Peletier de Saint Fargeau. In French, “hôtel” does not necessarily refer to an establishment providing accommodations to travelers and tourists. It can denote a type of lodging, but it can also mean the town hall or, as in this case, a grand townhouse or urban mansion.

The mansion was built in 1548 and then transformed by celebrated architect François Mansart in 1660, making it one of the oldest mansions in Paris and a rare example of Renaissance architecture in Paris. It became a museum in 1866.

The collection is truly extraordinary with 140 chronological rooms depicting the history of Paris. Original 16th-century rooms from this mansion and others throughout Paris house much of the collection., which contains over 618,000 items dating from prehistory to the present. The first floor covers the period up to 1789, and a neighboring mansion, which was annexed to the museum in 1989, covers the Revolution, the era of Napoleon, and up to the present.

Practical Notes:

Put your wallet away! As of the date of publication, Musée Carnavalet is FREE.
The collection is large and captivating. Give yourself four hours to properly tour the museum.
Skip the museum café. Musée Carnavalet is located in the Marais neighborhood, a foodie’s dream. There are plenty of restaurants and cafés tucked along the charming surrounding streets.

2. MUSÉE JACQUEMART-ANDRÉ

Musée Jacquemart-André occupies a large 19th-century palace-style mansion built by Edouard André and his wife Nélie Jacquemart, who were great art collectors. The salons of the private mansion house the works of master painters such as Uccello, Mantegna, Botticelli, Van Dyck, Rembrandt, Fragonard, and Reynolds.

The couple’s marriage was one of convenience, but they were great partners who shared a love of fine art. Their eye and knack for selecting quality art were so keen that major museums, like the Louvre, consulted them in acquiring art and partnered with them to ensure valuable pieces found worthy permanent homes.

Meanwhile, many feel the mansion’s architect, Henri Parent, who had come in as runner-up to his colleague, Charles Garnier, in the bid to build the new Opera (Garnier), more than proved himself in the construction of this hotel—especially in the design of the Winter Garden and astonishing double helix staircase.

Practical Notes:

This museum café is a real gem! The setting is spectacular (see above photo), and you can also choose to sit on the terrace, which overlooks the impressive entry drive and courtyard. Do high tea or go à la carte, but be sure to have a pâtisserie. Your server will lead you to the dessert display where you can handpick a (gigantic) pastry of your choice. (I had the pear tarte with cream). Definitely one of the most beautiful tea rooms in Paris.
Musée Jacquemart-André has one of the most elegant and inviting children’s spaces I’ve ever seen at a museum. Check ahead to be sure it is open.
I highly recommend the audio guide for this museum. The art is labeled, but the audioguide takes you on a journey into the 19th century and the relationship of Edouard and Néllie as well as explains many of the artworks and the important elements of the building’s architecture.

3. HÔTEL DE LA MARINE

After a three-year renovation between 2017 and 2020, the Hôtel de la Marine opened to the public as a national monument to much fanfare. This iconic monument has become the go-to museum in Paris.

The Hôtel de la Marine was built at the same time as the Place de la Concorde (where it is situated) at the end of the reign of King Louis XV in the 1770s. Until 1798, it housed the Garde-Meuble de la Couronne, before becoming the headquarters of France’s navy ministry for over 200 years.

Designed by Ange-Jacques Gabriel, the king’s chief architect, it is a perfect example of classic 18th-century architecture.

Practical Notes:

Hôtel de la Marine boasts two amazing restaurants, both with incredible interiors: Mimosa and Café Lapérouse. Mimosa brings the Riviera spirit to the heart of Paris and offers Mediterranean cuisine. Café Lapérouse is a touch more casual and open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Be sure to take in one or both of these gastronomical delights.
Go back at night to see the courtyard lights! If your schedule allows, swing through the courtyard after dark while the courtyard is lit up. Admission to the museum is not required to visit the courtyard. Better yet, book a dinner reservation at Mimosa and experience the dazzle of the nightly courtyard at the same time.
Once again, get the audio guide! In fact, I don’t think it’s optional when entering the museum. The headset uses state-of-the-art, binaural audio technology and will be your tour guide. Total new-generation.

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